Day 18 - October 21, 2016 -Southport to Georgetown, SC

0730 we left Southport, traveling west, inside, down the ICW for 23.5 NM in intermittent fog, before going out into the Atlantic at Little River Inlet.  

Early morning fog

More remnants of Matthew

Once outside we had a six hour voyage, and set a course for 219 degrees west, to the Winyah Inlet, at the entrance to the Winyah River, which takes you up to Georgetown.

Decent outside, for the first few hours 

The seas built all during the day so by the time we started into  the Inlet we had 6' rollers running from the NE and a 3-5’ chop on top coming from the SW. Sloppy conditions for the last hour or two outside.

Seas building

Then we had to run against a 5 knot current about 10 miles up river.  93 NM in 9h9m! Boat handled it well but not too  much fun.  Long day.  Didn't get in until after five.

Georgetown is very nice.  They have a paper mill that is a bit odiferous when the wind is wrong but otherwise a nice town with a harbor boardwalk, restaurants and shops. 

Paper mill at the head of the harbor

Georgetown history

As mentioned before, we continually have people stopping by to look at the boat and ask questions.  Turns out we missed the Georgetown Wooden Boat Show by just a few days; it was last weekend.  There were a few of the show boats still there and a couple of their owners told us that had we been there a week earlier, we probably would have won “Best in Show”!!  Oh well, there’s always next year.

Heart stopping goodness

Tomorrow we plan to run inside all day about 65nm to Charleston and are planning to spend two nights taking in the town. 

Day 17 - Beaufort to Southport, NC - Westward Ho!

Beaufort to Southport, NC.


So, piracy is a main theme of this town.  Beaufort is where Blackbeard reigned and his ship, Queen Anne's Revenge, is shipwrecked just off the inlet.  

Blackbeard and me

Check it out on Wikipedia or whatever.

Weather permitting, the plan for today was to run outside. Not only does it move the voyage along if the weather is fair, it also makes sense because the ICW has a number unsettled issues remaining from hurricane Matthew. The waters are still high from the storm and we are just coming off a full moon so the tides are running extreme. In fact, tomorrow we have to deal with a bridge that is still unable to open until the waters recede some more.

We lucked out with another beautiful day and left Beaufort after breakfast at 0730. Beaufort Town Docks are so conveniently located to the inlet.  We were in open ocean in no time.

Flat calm outside for once

Outside the inlet we had only 2-4 foot swells at 10-12 second intervals and light winds. We set a course for Masonboro Inlet on the autopilot and started to take watches.  We ran about 5 to 6 hours outside, the first half of a very long day. 

Dolphin watch

Making time

We went back into the ICW through the Masonboro Inlet and proceeded down around Cape Fear to Southport for the evening. 

After going through the inlet, which was exciting in and of itself, (we wished we'd had pics of that). But then again there's a reason why we don't have many pictures of the exciting times -we're dealing with the exciting times! :)


Heading 240 WSW

Nearing the Inlet- Wrightsville Beach

Once we were back in the Intracoastal Waterway, we still had 2-3 hours, depending on current, traffic, etc.  Some tricky spots but relatively easy motoring.  At one point we were running with the current at over 15 knots at only 2300 rpms.

Remnants of Matthe

After fueling up at Southport Marina, (no vacancy) we made our way down to South Harbor Village Marina, quite a nice spot with two restaurants.  Right after showering, as we returned to the boat, a really fun thing occurred. We had visitors from Chebeague!  It turns out Jen (Putnam) and Ian Cummings live down here now and saw our whereabouts on this blog and came by to visit!  We had a beer aboard and made connections.  Fun!

Might try to make Georgetown tomorrow but it's a greater distance than today's of 90+nm. However, there's some talk of rain and increasing winds in the afternoon so we'll play it by ear.

Day 16 - Belhaven to Beaufort, North Carolina

Partly cloudy skies at dawn but overall clear and calm day. 

Belhaven sunrise
Grill still out!

Visibility today, forever. This day's route was quite interesting with a series of bays, rivers and canals. 

Pretty much due south
60.1nm, 6h11m

0745 shoved off down the Pungo River, across the Pamlico River into Goose Creek. That route eliminates the need to go all the way around Brandt Island Shoal or navigate it's slue. 

Exiting the canal takes you down to Bay River which feeds into the Neuse. 

This is where Henry, the dock master in Belhaven suggested we'd be heading straight into a southwest wind and chop. He was right , we were sailing directly into it but perhaps because we got to that spot early enough in the morning, we were able to avoid the seas building. By the time we entered Adam's creek, it was as a mill pond. 

Very little traffic on the canal as well (early bird...), so we made it through quickly and got to Beaufort by 2 pm. Time to relax and explore the town.

Believe it or not, a Kiwi came up to our boat and said, "Is your boat a Peter Kass?"  I said "Yes, built to Peter's design by Mike Robinson on Chebeague!" He had just met a gentleman in Newport who referenced an article about Peter written in a magazine and this guy looked up the design and recognized it!

Anyway, we had a delightful day enjoying some Southern hospitality ands a a great meal including shrimp and cheese grits!

Weather permitting, we're planning to go outside tomorrow and make it to Southport, with a bail out of Wrightsville.  This avoids some windy and unsettled part of the ICW.  Both are good options depending on time underway and the Lady's temperament....

Day 15 - Coinjock to Belhaven NC

Day 15. Coinjock to Belhaven, NC

Sunrise 0713

We awoke at 0630 and left before sun up.  One or two vessels left with us or before. Breakfast underway.  Today we had to decide whether or not to go east and venture out for a really long day through Pamlico Sound to a town called Oriental, or go more inland through a canal system to Belhaven. 

Southbound at dawn

Temperatures are ideal now and have been pretty much the whole trip. Thirty-seven degrees fahrenheit the morning of the day we left Rowayton and then a couple of cool mornings in NJ but since then the temperature has been ideal.

Once we got out of the "Coinjock" canal into Abelmarle Sound the wind picked up, making the seas run choppy because of the shallow depth. The decision was made for us. The inside route was delightful,  even if more boring! Another swampy run through the pine trees. 

At the southern part of Abelmarle Bay, we had to wait a few minutes for the Alligator River swing bridge to open (on demand).  Some are on the hour or half, others on demand.  Some are left open unless they need them (train bridges, primarily).

Alligator River Swing Bridge
17' clearance

But before entering the canal, we had an unbelievable experience while traversing up (but on a southerly route?) the Alligator River.  We're not sure, but it was either the Blue Angels or the Thunderbirds performing, (or eat least practicing) over this body of water.

Over our bow

Absolutely fantastic. It was so thrilling to actually feel these magnificent jets speeding right across our bow and overhead.  So exciting!!  Amanda was able to capture this shot literally right overhead!

OMG

The River Forest Manor and Marina is quite the place. Conveniently located at the mouth of the Pungo River.  Not the flattest lie we've had for the evening, but a nice enough place to lure you in.  They have loaner golf carts to go for provisions, nice showers and free laundry!  First spot for that, I think.

The Manor Hous

We will leave early again to morrow and try to make Beaufort, NC.

Sunset 1831

Who's pic is better, JL's above or this one, Amanda's?

Day 14 - Portsmouth, VA to Coinjock, NC

Last evening in Portsmouth included a fabulous dinner at a place called Still, which you might deduce has the name due to having been a still during prohibition. We ate at the bar, tapas for the most part, and great duck tacos. 

Some Portsmouth History

The Coffee Shop on the corner of High and Middle Streets is a "go to" spot.

Breakfast in Portsmouth

Shoved off at 0930 and made it down the Elizabeth River. Naval ship after naval ship.  Many in dry dock.

Very interesting day with several bridges and a lock system to drop us 18 inches on our way down. The only problem was that a flotilla of 25 sailboats, had arrived just before we did so two lock transport openings later, we went thorough.  Even Amanda couldn't get us moved along faster.....   

But those interludes allow you to meet other boaters. We've found it shocking how many people ask us about our boat, or even more, people notice "Chebeague Island" on our hail port and either know about the Island or have been there!  To that point, it turns out that in the very lock along with us, the boat just ahead of us had been to Chebeague.  And the boat behind us knew the Whitman family; the captain had worked with Bob at MIT!

Going down the dismal swamp, we encountered, some fun seekers riding wave runners.  They couldn't wait for us to get out of the No Wake Zone, so they could ride our waves. These guys were going 70 miles an hour up and down the canal but timing our wake, just right.

And higher

Wake riding high,

Our destination after running through the Dismal Swamp today was a place called Coinjock, a "must do" on the ICW, mostly because it's pretty much the only place to stop between Portsmouth and where the ICW offers other tributaries.

Cool little restaurant and we're waiting to go to dinner in order to see if we can view this rocket launch- the satellite supply ship. 

I believe we are the smallest vessel in the marina. Something tells me if Amanda does ithis trip again, it might not be on the Lady A, despite how comfortable and efficient this has been, so far......

Off to Belle Haven tomorrow, as now planned.

(Will try to add more pics tomorrow.)

Day 13 - Stingray Point (Deltaville) to Portsmouth, VA

0930, after christening one cooktop with scrambled eggs and toast, we pulled out of Dozier's Regatta Point, near the town of Deltaville on Stingray Point and headed south to Mile Zero. 

Thankfully, another day of ideal conditions, with calm seas and wind to frustrate sailors. For us, a beautiful and peaceful run. The only small drawback was that we ran most of the day against the current, on average making less than 9 knots.

Passing Thimble Island Shoal Light

Just huge

So far we have run 735 NM since leaving Maine. A bit more than a third of the trip, (?)

Warming up a bit today

We missed the windjammer race over this past weekend which started in Baltimore (with the Blue Angels performing) and went south to Norfolk. We saw several of them leaving the area.

Heading home

Homeward bound

The Tidewater Yacht Agency is the "go to" spot for provisioning for the inland route. 

In Portsmouth, VA, looking across the Elizabeth River to Norfolk

Here, we'll spend the night and take care of a few "to do's" before heading out for Coinjock.

Tomorrow, we officially enter the ditch. We may go outside here and there, but for the most part, the rest of the trip is on the ICW.

Pre dinner beverage alongside

Day 12 - St. Michael's to Stingray Point

St. Michael's Marina

We awoke to an amazing (and somewhat cool) morning but the day promised to warm up.  It was flat calm and clear as a bell so we pulled out at 0735 and ate breakfast under way.  Spectacular day on the belly of the Chesapeake.

Sunrise on the Chesapeake-pulling out of St. Michael's

We had no specific destination picked out for today.  People had mentioned Solomons or York but we had to do what the Lady A could do, within reason.  Given the fabulous conditions, we traveled our second longest run today, 95.5 nautical miles.   There is so much we didn't see, taking the rhumb line. The Chesapeake is vast.

Smith Point Lighthouse marking the entrance to the Potomac

One could spend a lifetime exploring the Chesapeake or any of these bays,  shorelines and inlets on the Atlantic coastline and never scratch the surface.  (For that reason, at least John may need to do this again, in years to come.)

We ended up targeting a marina somewhere on Stingray Point on the eastern shore, Virginia, simply because that area was more than halfway to tomorrow's destination.  I love random stops.  That's what makes a trip like this.

A little exercise,
stretching and balancing, underway.

So we were able to take advantage of today's great weather and have an easier run tomorrow, in order to arrive in Portsmouth, VA with some decent time ashore.  Portsmouth is Mile Zero of the ICW.

As mentioned, we motored 95.5 nm for 8 hours, 45 minutes today.  This all may sound so glamorous but much of it is pretty boring. We may start playing gin rummy or Jotto soon. (Perhaps we all need to do more stuff like that!?)

Nap Time

Today, we ended up in Dozier's Marina, which is fantastic.  Friendly, conveniently located from the Bay, clean facilities and they host the Virginia Yacht Club.  It's on Stingray Point near the town of Deltaville.

Dozier's

They're having their 3 day, end-of-year party/annual meeting, during which lots of boisterous proposals were being "Aye, Ayed!", well into the evening.  We grilled our ribs at their fine facility while trying not to listen to the proceedings.

Annual Closing Ceremonies of the Virginian Yacht Club

On to Portsmouth, Mile Zero, tomorrow.

At rest alongside

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